No rust, the little I found was fixed correctly and that was in the front window smaller than a dime and the front of the rear fender again very small.
Full repaint, dark metallic maroon to include jams, sunroof and engine bay, guide coated and color sanded, all wheel wells and the back under the bumper where undercoated
All the three million extra holes in the engine bay were welded up and smoothed
All new moldings prepped and painted
Rear wiper removed and welded up
New lights where needed
New center garnish
New mud flaps (not pictured)
New wheel liners
New rain gutters
New window trim
Wheels team dynamics 15X7 38mm offset hand painted letters new 205/50/15 bfgoodrich tires
Obx lugnuts
Extended wheel studs
New oem front spoiler (not pictured)
Interior
stock seats
New recovered (factory from majestic) driver seat
Shift light in dash
Pretty basic clean and livable
Boost gauge
Oil pressure
Wideband O2
Type R short shifter
Suspension
full race traction bar
AGX shocks and struts (externally adjustable)
tein springs
stock, front and rear sway bars with poly bushings
All new front bushings (rubber)
New trail arm bushings in the rear
New bearings
New steering boots
Just had alignment done (all in specs, little rear camber but only 1*)
Rear OBX arms
Camber kit in front
Brakes
94 Integra rear disc conversion
Fast brakes big brake kit front and back
Front brakes 11” wildwood calipers powder coated gold with red letters
Rear brakes 11” stock (integra) caliper relocation kit
All disc powder coated chrome so they will never rust
Front hubs powder coated
All braided steel lines
Hawk brake pads these brakes are solid!
cross drilled rotors
new ex booster
new ex master cylinder
disc brake port valve from integra
Motor
block was prepped at laskey before our dear friend passed, it’s not sleeved though
block is a b16 out of a XSI teg, I originally bought from Hmotors
all new factory bearings
eagle rods
bored for the wisco 90.5 pistons
piston to wall clearance is .0035”
new oil pump
new water pump
new timing belt
head b16 rebuild, decked .002” three angle valve job
GSR cams
New factory valve seals
H series (spring) lost motion assemblies
ARP head studs
New vtec gasket
Moroso oilpan (leaks a little bit, drives me nuts, I’ll throw in a stock pan)
NGK spark plug wires
Password cam plug
Edyne breather
Obd 1 conversion
Ectune engine management
Precision 780CC injectors
Hks turbo manifold (ceramic coated by the shodan)
Gt2871r turbo (ceramic coated turbine, powder coated compressor by the shodan)
Aluminum charge pipes all bead rolled
Tial 50mm BOV
Turbo XS dual stage boost controller
K&N air filter
Black anodized intercooler (not painted)
3” exhaust from the turbo to the tailpipe mostly mild steel aluminized 14ga. Very durable
Two magaflow mufflers
Polished stainless steel axle back exhaust very quiet for a 3” you hear the turbo mare than anything
Jdm YS1 cable tranny with stock limited slip diff smooth like butter
Clutchmasters FX300
Stock axles (I like it that way, rather break a $75 axle than a expensive transmission)
I’ve only ran syncomesh in the tranny
New dizzy
NGK 7 pugs
AN-6 fuel line
Just replaced the engine mount bushings (hasport)
Fluidyne radiator
Heat wrapped downpipe
Battery moved to the trunk
255lpm walbro fuelpump
Things that need attention
For some reason the intermittent wipers are well really intermittent but the other settings work just fine and I don’t drive it in the rain so it has not been a problem for me, just pisses me off that it’s not perfect.
Slight oil leak from the moroso oil pan, dan thing just will not seal right $150 down the drain.
I need to do a little work to get the homemade gauge holder to fit better but I’ll fix before sale, it’s powder coated 6061 aluminum.
A few stone chips in the paint, it’s a driver.
No a/c
No cruise control
The price is ridiculous, I know, but if you even start to add up the parts and hours, it starts to not look so bad. If you want a very nice, clean car and don’t want to pay for all the work and parts, you just want to turn the key and crush fools, then this is for you. $10,000
It dyno’ed at 280hp 200tq before the cams and 3” should be solidly into the 300s by now.
I live in Fayetteville NC, not interested in trades
If you want to see a certain part up close let me know and I’ll try to get pics work permitting.
Thanks for your time!
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You should just spend $50-75 to get new dyno numbers, no tune just baseline pulls. It would help with selling the car.
In all honesty, even though I'm a huge EF fan, and huge fan of small turbo + high boost + small car combo, I have to say for pricing... you should sell it if some gives you 7-8K.
I'm being very generous with that. The car is worth $10K in parts/labor ect but when you compare it to some modded EG/EK out there you have a lot of competition in that price range for what you get.
If I didn not already have my mint ef hb si gsr apexi turbo car.... I would offer you $7K tops.
If you don't mind could I ask you some questions.
1) When you made 280whp:
- what psi was that at?
- what size down pipe & exhaust were you running then?
- was that on E85?
2) I saw that the cold side of turbo & IM was coated red...what kind of coating is that & what were the benefits? & how much did it cost you?
3) the oil pan that you have is it the regular one or the 5.5 quart one?
So you’re saying that the sum of the parts, is not worth the total of the car; Might be. The bottom line is, it’s pricey, but the level of detail put into the car’s is extreme and time is money. Maybe the pictures don’t do it justice; there is nothing to hide on this car. My wife want me to sale the car because I’ve already picked up a new project car, too appease her, I will try to sale it, but I’m in no hurry, I love driving this thing. If I decide that I just want to make some money back, I might part it out, but would really be a shame. Thanks for commenting. Oh and tune is still on, wide band is installed full time and I’ve read the plugs. So please don’t think just because it’s not been on a dyno lately that it’s somehow not tuned, that would be false, it was tuned by one of the finest on the east coast.
- what psi was that at? 15
- what size down pipe & exhaust were you running then? 2.5
- was that on E85? 93oct
I saw that the cold side of turbo & IM was coated red...what kind of coating is that & what were the benefits? & how much did it cost you?
Powder coated, “wrinkle red” I did the manifold myself so just the cost of the powder, and the turbine, and compressor were done by the Shodan, I think he charged like 250 for the ceramic coating on the manifold and the turbo, benefits, the powder coating, probably none, the ceramic coating have been documented in the FI forum.
the oil pan that you have is it the regular one or the 5.5 quart one?
It's the reg one, although I think I’m going to weld some bungs on the stock one tonight, because I can’t get this one to stop leaking, tried everything and now I give up. so if anyone is looking for a slightly used moroso oil pan that has a “auto chassis lubrication” feature, hit me up.
V/R
Mike
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90si hatchback, b16 gt2871r turbo
