The number you have been contacting me on is my girlfriends phone (now ex-girlfriend) if you would have looked at my history i have not been on in a long time, i have been so busy i have not even had time to hop on HT. I just sent you a PM with my current contact number. I have them sitting in a box here at my work but no time to drop them off, i have been working 8-6 everyday and working right through my lunch break cause 2 guys at my work got fired for huffing spray paint well at work and my boss has not found replacements yet. I am in no way dogging you man, ask anyone i have sold to/ bought from on here and they will tell you, i dont B/s when it comes to this stuff.
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..............................SanDiego..............................
//Daily Dumped || ChaseBAYS || FU*K YO SHIT\\
"Ridin with no tint, so the Haters know it's me"
even met up at what most people consider an unreasonable time (10pm-ish after i got back from school)
pretty cool seller.
im sure there is a reason your caps haven't went in.
edit: just read they are main caps, and chance that this is a b16a block?
more specifically a JDM first gen b16a block?
i have a bare block here being used as a table (no shit piece of glass on some old head studs with rubber pads)
i have no problem getting them to you for cheap, i don't ship, i am located in temecula.
but since you said you don't build your own motors.
BEWARE: USING OTHER Main CAPS ON A NEW BLOCK YOU NEED TO LINE BORE,HONE AND MATCH TO YOUR CRANK, IF YOUR CRANK IS THICKER OR YOUR BLOCK HAS HAD LINE HONE/BORE WORK DONE TO IT THAT MY CAPS HAVE NOT YOU MAY HAVE TO BUY A NEW CRANK, MACHINE IT, OR MACHINE THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY RESULTING IN $$$$$$$$
FROM THERE YOU WILL NEED TO BUY THICKER OR THINNER BEARINGS DEPENDING ON MACHINE WORK DONE.
SINCE I CAN'T TEACH YOU HOW TO BUILD A MOTOR OVER THE INTERNET MY SMALL PARAGRAPH HERE WILL NOT TELL YOU OF THE TROUBLES YOU WILL HAVE WHEN ASSEMBLING A MOTOR. A VERY COSTLY AND DIFFICULT TASK IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.
I WOULDN'T RECOMMEND BUILDING A HONDA ENGINE FOR POWER AS A FIRST ENGINE BUILD. PICK UP A FEW CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS (2 BOLT MAIN) TO GET THIS STUFF DOWN PAT, THEN GO FOR THE HONDA.
thank you pat. i hate seeing these threads. flaming ppl like this bringing neg. vibe to them is NOT cool. solve your problems otherwise.
Me and the seller are good friends and often times, I myself could not get ahold of him (His ex tends to swap phones, cars/etc). I understand what the original poster's mind is going through considering he hasn't gotten any word for weeks.
I don't blame anyone who thought wrong as generally this is where the scamming begins. This community are simply just looking out for the buyer and anyone else who got scammed. I'm just glad Ray was finally at his leisure and made it in time to inform the buyer of his dilemma.
The number you have been contacting me on is my girlfriends phone (now ex-girlfriend) if you would have looked at my history i have not been on in a long time, i have been so busy i have not even had time to hop on HT. I just sent you a PM with my current contact number. I have them sitting in a box here at my work but no time to drop them off, i have been working 8-6 everyday and working right through my lunch break cause 2 guys at my work got fired for huffing spray paint well at work and my boss has not found replacements yet. I am in no way dogging you man, ask anyone i have sold to/ bought from on here and they will tell you, i dont B/s when it comes to this stuff.
Just get this resolved.
Two weeks is enough time.
You could have taking your lunch break to go to the USPS post office,UPS,FEDEX etc. to ship it out, just saying...
OR. you could of just left the main caps on the block where their supposed to be :D
NOW, for the people that keep telling him "buy different main caps" let me explain one more time. THEY MUST BE ORIGINAL or you have to HAVE THEM LINE BORED (which is not cheap at all) might aswell buy a complete block b4 u line bore caps.
OR. you could of just left the main caps on the block where their supposed to be :D
NOW, for the people that keep telling him "buy different main caps" let me explain one more time. THEY MUST BE ORIGINAL or you have to HAVE THEM LINE BORED (which is not cheap at all) might aswell buy a complete block b4 u line bore caps.
eh a line bore isn't too pricey, it gets cheaper if you pay to get the block decked, and the cylinder walls at the very LEAST glaze broken.
they even hot tank it for free out here too.
about $200, which you SHOULD do on any block over 100k imho, and w/e crank he sources probably needs a micropolish. since it won't be paired withthe mains and bearings that the shortblock was paired with.
on all of my personal motors, i just do everything whats the point of ghetto rigging a motor together, and have it fall apart before the second oil change?
eh a line bore isn't too pricey, it gets cheaper if you pay to get the block decked, and the cylinder walls at the very LEAST glaze broken.
they even hot tank it for free out here too.
about $200, which you SHOULD do on any block over 100k imho, and w/e crank he sources probably needs a micropolish. since it won't be paired withthe mains and bearings that the shortblock was paired with.
on all of my personal motors, i just do everything whats the point of ghetto rigging a motor together, and have it fall apart before the second oil change?
ok well line boring is something we have never done unless a main bearing was spun.
we actually hone our cylinders too for the new rings to seat which costs me nothing and my motors last alot longer then 2 oil changes .
but then again theres nothing wrong with doing all that work and if u can afford it to pay a machine shop thats VERY good.
ok well line boring is something we have never done unless a main bearing was spun.
we actually hone our cylinders too for the new rings to seat which costs me nothing and my motors last alot longer then 2 oil changes .
but then again theres nothing wrong with doing all that work and if u can afford it to pay a machine shop thats VERY good.
yeah, with budget shitif the bearings are in good condition, the mains and crank are all original/usalbe then you can clean it up and use it if they are not at 100,000 miles or something.
but really, basics of risk management = if something is cheap and can be done without much more work why not prevent catastrophic failure resulting in doing everything twice?
yeah, with budget shitif the bearings are in good condition, the mains and crank are all original/usalbe then you can clean it up and use it if they are not at 100,000 miles or something.
but really, basics of risk management = if something is cheap and can be done without much more work why not prevent catastrophic failure resulting in doing everything twice?
do it once, well.
heres a example. you take a motor apart, and your sitting there looking @ a factory rod bearing that looks PERFECT and the motor has 150k miles. are you really going to risk it and replace the bearing? you know that specific bearing is pretty much became a perfect shape of that rod and will fits alot better then getting a standard size NEW bearing.
if the bearings look fine, WE leave them alone. dont fix whats not broken cuz sometimes that bites you in the ass.
(now ofcourse im talking about a basic n/a motor) not a performance build. performance build is a different story.
trust me i sent him PM's DAILY and i checked to see if he got on to read them which he did but never responded. then one day he logged on to bump ppls stuff and not pm me about the situation so i decided to make this thread to get his attention.
heres a example. you take a motor apart, and your sitting there looking @ a factory rod bearing that looks PERFECT and the motor has 150k miles. are you really going to risk it and replace the bearing? you know that specific bearing is pretty much became a perfect shape of that rod and will fits alot better then getting a standard size NEW bearing.
if the bearings look fine, WE leave them alone. dont fix whats not broken cuz sometimes that bites you in the ass.
(now ofcourse im talking about a basic n/a motor) not a performance build. performance build is a different story.
sounds good i'd do that too. horror stories about aftermarket bearings spinning when you could have just used the stock ones in mint condition
if the main caps were supposed to be included w/ the sale then why doesn't the buyer have his main caps? why is this an issue? arent main caps supposed to be included? why does the buyer have to fork out his cash for an item that is supposed to be given w/ the og sale? a lot of you people are missing the point of this thread and why the Op posted it. your 2 cents isnt needed here.
i stickied this thread so hopefully jdm.i.am can see it and ship the parts but i guess that is too challenging for him.
so jdm.i.am, you are going to ruin your good name over parts that should of been shipped already?
this might not be a big deal to you but you are proving that you are incompetent and unreliable. who wants to waste their time with a seller like that?
okay, you say you are busy at work? but isnt being busy a part of life? usps has a shipping machine where you can ship 24/7. you can sign up for a fedex account and fedex will pick up the box from your house. sorry you have no excuse.
so you're saying your workplace does not have a fedex or ups account? your work does not receive mail from usps?
man up and ship them like the "good seller" you are. pm the buyer and ask for his address and print out a shipping label and send him his main caps... end of story.
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Re: jdm.I.am I NEED MY MAIN CAPS
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i'd do that too. horror stories about aftermarket bearings spinning when you could have just used the stock ones in mint condition
